Road Tripping to Caminha, Northern Portugal

I was told a long time ago by Portuguese friends to visit Caminha, a small town in Northern Portugal, well known for its nature and serenity. 

I flew to Porto airport with a friend and rented a car so we could do a road trip. We started with a visit to the conveniently located town of Braga, which is only a half-hour car ride or 45 minutes by bus from the airport. If staying in Porto, one can visit it as a day trip, as it’s only one hour by train from Porto Sao Bento, Porto’s (and perhaps Europe’s) most beautiful train station. 

Braga is a small city, but there are a few things to do, with the Santuary of Bom do Jesus being the most popular landmark, also a UNESCO World Heritage site. The church sits atop of a hill, which you can either access via a scenic staircase or by a funicular that is powered by water (the oldest in Europe). We took the scenic route, zigzagging up the 577 steps and enjoying the views and statues along the way. If you visit in spring, you can enjoy the flowers that bloom everywhere. I returned later with my four-year-old daughter, and she even managed the steps to the top, albeit slowly.

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After our exertions, we meandered downhill to Rua do Souto, a pedestrian-only street where old Braga comes alive in the evenings. We began at Arco da Porta Nova, an ancient entry point in the city walls (long since disappeared, although some remnants can still be seen, even within some restaurants). This entry point, or gate, never had an actual gate, which is why Braga’s residents are humorously known in Portugal for never closing the door behind them.

Along this street, you’ll find the Sé de Braga, one of Portugal’s most influential cathedrals and the oldest cathedral in Portugal, built in the 10th century. Praça Central is a popular place for locals to hang out, and you can enjoy a coffee at Largo da Arcada. 

We made sure to have a “Pica no chão,” also known as “arroz de cabidela” (cabidela rice), which is a Portuguese dish, particularly from the Minho region, made with chicken and rice. Meat eaters could try a bifana no pão, a pork steak on bread. So simple, yet so tasty, especially with a cold beer, according to my pork-loving friend. We ended up enjoying the ambience of the square by sitting on a park bench. Sometimes, it’s the simple things that can be the most enjoyable. 

One afternoon and evening in Braga is enough; it’s a small city. We left the following morning towards Caminha. 

Having the car made it easier to visit Ponte de Lima, a place along the way to Caminha. Here, you can delight yourself with Arroz de Sarrabulho, another tasty local dish best enjoyed in the shabbiest restaurants.

The next destination was Viana do Castelo, a port town. Monte de Santa Luzia was our first port of call. It’s an iconic mountaintop church with a small museum & dome offering panoramic views. Before rushing into the Santuario de Santa Luzia, the huge, majestic church, one must walk around its exterior and soak in the panoramic vistas. They go as far as the eye can see across the Limia River valley and the Atlantic Ocean. 

By late afternoon, we left Viana do Castelo before we lost the daylight and drove along the charming back roads to find our way to Rinoterra, a stately converted manor house and home away from home nestled in the hillside of Caminha. After being greeted by the friendly manager, we dropped our bags and relaxed for a while. The Rinoterra hotel has deck chairs that look out over a 17th-century island fortress. A large spa facility, electric bikes, and an electric car are also available for guests to borrow at the hotel.

After a short rest, we set off down the hill to drink in the sunset from the Praia Caminha, one of Northern Portugal’s best beaches. 

The beach is where Portugal meets Spain, split by the River Minho (which names the region). The setting is fabulous. The Spanish mountain, Santa Tecla, creates a stunning backdrop, while a shady pocket of pine forest offers shelter from an offshore breeze. 

After watching a pink, tranquil sunset in the town, we left the small bench and peaceful view to have dinner at Amandio, a fantastic local restaurant furnished in a unique and fabulously quirky traditional Portuguese style. I would go there for the decor alone. Amandio has decades of experience and writes about food and wine for local magazines. He treated us like celebrities, pairing a different wine with each course, and soon we were stuffed with local fish.

The next day, we find Minh Aventura, the local adventure company. They get us kitted out with life jackets and take us on a magnificent kayaking experience down the river. Our guide tells us that they can accommodate up to 60 people in the summer, and even non-swimmers and families with three-year-olds can enjoy kayaking as the river is calm rather than turbulent. A two-person kayak costs 40 euros for a trip down the river, and adding a child incurs no extra charge.

The company can also arrange stand-up paddle boarding on the river and bike rental along the river pathways. They are always available to organise kayak tours for kids’ birthday parties. The company even offers a kids’ summer camp, which is brilliant for team building, picnics, and kite flying. The group is very flexible and operates all year, so it’s certainly worth bringing your children there in the summer to experience closeness with nature and outdoor activities.

After paddling down the river, we went to watch kite surfing at Praia de Cabedelo and stopped at the wonderful Aquário Restaurante & Bar for a late lunch. 

Another adventure worth going on in Caminha is G venture Jeep tour (Caminha 4×4)

Early in the morning our guide picked us up from Rinoterra hotel in his jeep. Soon we were bouncing along to the top of the mountain, Serra d’Arga. Amazingly there were many wild horses calmly grazing in the hillsides along the dirt track. Apparently it’s a common site as there are more than 114 wild horses and also wild pigs on the mountain. At the highest point of the mountain is the outdoor altar to Our Lady of Minho, Senhora do Minho and the Caminha fire tower.

The mountain views extend for miles and reminded me of trips with my grandfather when I was a child. He would take me to the better known mountain of Monshique in the Algarve, in the south, to soak up the wide vistas. Portugal is a country I have been visiting my whole life, so I am pleased to now discover the lesser known Northern parts of the country. If I had to decide I think Serra D’arga is perhaps even the more beautiful of the two.

There are fascinating piles of rocks on the top of the mountain. Our guide explained that people come and make the rock piles because it is said that if someone else reassembles the rock formations, the dreams of the person who put them there will come true. I jiggle a few of the stones on one of the piles in the hopes it really works for someone out there.

After exploring the mountain, we parked under a grove of trees to have lunch. We are happy soaking
in the views while eating fresh breads, cheeses, olives and wine.

Refreshed by clean air, nature, good food, and the calm and peace of Caminha, it’s hard to leave, but it is an easy, stress-free drive to the airport to return to London.

FAQs about Caminha, Portugal