As I sit at home in the cold British winter, with a broken heating system, it’s hard for me to believe that this time last year I was adventuring around Patagonia with my daughter.
Initially, it was daunting to venture into Patagonia when there was so little available online in English about what to do and where to go. My original plan was to attempt to reach Torres del Paine Glacier. I wanted to see Patagonia’s volcanoes, lakes, glaciers, and untamed nature. However, I quickly realised it was too ambitious given that I would be hiking with my four-year-old daughter in tow.
Chile is a long and beautiful country with unforgettable scenery; I knew that venturing out of Santiago would never be something I regretted. For this reason, I was determined to visit somewhere in the South, even if it wasn’t the ultimate destination of Torres del Paine. In Patagonia, it rains for 200 days a year, but that actually sounded appealing considering we were in Santiago enduring extreme heat, surrounded by smoke and wildfires.
I searched for affordable flights and discovered a direct option from Santiago to Puerto Montt, which took 2 hours and cost £50 per person with Sky Airline.
On the recommendation of a Chilean friend, I booked two days in Puerto Montt and a week in Puerto Varas. I truly appreciated the advice to avoid staying too long in Puerto Montt. Puerto Montt is a modern city by the water but can be explored in a day. I enjoyed it for its modern conveniences, including large shopping malls, a Chuck E. Cheese that my daughter loved, and a picturesque waterside area. It served as a good base for a brief rest before moving on to Puerto Varas.
Puerto Varas is a more charming town, only thirty minutes away from Puerto Montt by Uber, and it feels like another world. There is much more nature to see; it features old-world German-style architecture and is surrounded by stunning landscape.
The moment we arrived, we unpacked at the Hotel Cabana Del Lago. I was recommended this hotel for being excellent for children by the same local friend who suggested I visit Puerto Varas, and she was absolutely right. The hotel is situated on the lake, facing the Osorno Volcano. It features a massive indoor pool with slides, which we used every day after our excursions. The hotel also has a large playroom for children that we utilised daily. We enjoyed a wonderful breakfast in an old-world wooden dining room with a breathtaking view of the lake.
Hotel Cabana del Lago is just a ten-minute walk from the town centre. Downtown features all the travel agencies for tours, charming indoor tourist markets selling local produce, a bus centre with routes covering the entire area, and several good local restaurants.
On our first day, we stumbled upon a festival right next to our hotel in Puerto Varas (I swear it was by accident) at an old, abandoned railway station. Music bands performed on stages, and there were cocktail stalls and energetic performers for the adults. In true South American style, there was also plenty of entertainment for the children, including face painting, traditional puppet shows, bouncing castles, and various games for my four-year-old.
We had such a wonderful time that we spent our first day at the festival. On the second day, we took a day trip to the natural hot springs, Termas del Sol. The hotel organised a bus tour to get there. It was rather a rude awakening to discover that it cost another 60 euros to enter the thermal baths upon arrival. Many things in Chile can be quite pricey, so it’s not the best destination for those on a tight budget.
At Termas del Sol, there are ten thermal pools, a thermal mud area, and 300 metres of stunning natural walkway. Each pool is unique in temperature and shape, offering exceptional views of the surrounding hills and forest. The temperatures range from 35º to 45º. My daughter quickly got into the spirit of jumping from pool to pool, despite the colder weather outside, and I had to ensure she didn’t enter the pools that were 45 degrees. It was a nicely designed place where one felt connected to nature, though it is pricey considering they don’t provide towels for the cost, only lockers. The onsite restaurant served amazing pizza and other dishes, so after a couple of hours enjoying the natural springs, one can warm up inside with a coffee and food.
Finding tours in English wasn’t particularly straightforward in this region of Chile, so if you speak Spanish, that’s a significant advantage. When we returned downtown from the springs, I discovered an English-speaking tour operator who arranged a trip for us to the surrounding villages the following day. The tour commenced with a passage by a monument honouring a group of musicians who tragically drowned en route to perform for the Prince of Wales, who was visiting this remote location in 1931 (fact is stranger than fiction).
Following that, the tour took us to Puerto Octay, a town overrun with Ibis birds. This was followed by a visit to a delightful town called Frutillar (meaning strawberry). The Germans established it when the Chilean government allocated them land in exchange for settling there in 1890. At that time, the Chileans preferred the warmer, less rainy climates and to live closer to Santiago. The Germans enjoyed the cooler areas in Patagonia, bringing along their own tools, architectural styles, and cakes and breads to the region.
Apparently, there was not much integration between the German and Chilean populations, so the small German community, which had kept its culture and people insular, began to inbreed. They recognised the need to mix more with the locals (at least according to my tour guide), and now there is greater intermarriage. We discovered the German Colonial Museum in Frutillar; however, nothing was written in English or German, and it primarily consisted of a walk-through of old German-style houses from the 19th century.
After Frutillar, a picturesque and charming town, we visited Lago Llanquihue. There, we admired the statues crafted by the Indigenous peoples, and my daughter enjoyed playing at the playground. It was a day filled with adventures and offered good value for money. Almost all the hotels organise tours to Frutillar, so this would be easy to arrange once you arrive.
In Puerto Varas itself, we visited the statue of Princess Licarayen, which was located right by our hotel. The story goes that she was a girl sacrificed by her tribe, the Huilliche, to calm the anger of Piri Pillen, whose rage caused devastating earthquakes and violent eruptions from the volcano Osorno, where he was trapped. Once the poor girl’s heart was torn out and cast into the mouth of the volcano, snow began to fall. It then melted down the side of the volcano, giving rise to the three lakes of the region, including Llaquihue. My daughter asked me about the story behind the statue, but I didn’t wish to upset her, so I made up another tale. After all, many stories of human sacrifice to volcanoes can be quite true!
After visiting the Princess, we ventured into town, and I decided to sample some local cuisine. Restaurante Las Buenas Brasas was recommended to me for authentic local dishes. We walked to the restaurant, which was somewhat concealed by its outdoor garden. I tried Locos con Mayonesa. Locos is Chilean abalone, characterised by its large, oval shell and soft, intensely flavoured centre. It’s not my favourite dish, but I’m glad I tried it, and the delightful pisco sours served there helped the Locos go down!
After the interesting lunch, we passed a travel agent in town, and they recommended we take a trip to Peulla the following day.
We set out early in the morning by climbing into a bus outside of the agents’ office in Puerto Varas. The large bus took us to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park. Along the route, we saw the Río Pescado river and quaint towns such as La Poza. We eventually arrived at the turquoise-hued Petrohué Falls. My daughter was tired, so it was fortunate we didn’t have to walk too far to see the splendid waterfalls amidst the lush vegetation.
From there, our tour took us to Todos los Santos Lake, where we got on a large boat to navigate through the Andes to the green village of Peulla.
We loved our time on the boat, where there were amazing mountain views in all directions. Even though it was cloudy, it wasn’t too cold to go on deck for the full immersion. It reminded me a bit of Alaska.
Once we arrived in Peulla, we opted for a “safari tour.” The 4×4 safari was great fun and gave us the opportunity to visit a farm with llamas while soaking in the stunning scenery. The guide spoke very softly, so I missed many of their nuggets of wisdom through the microphone. Afterwards, we had free time to explore the amazing Hotel Natura Patagonia. I choose to wander outside with my daughter rather than waste our last hour dining at the hotel. Large, vicious flies began swarming around us, so we ended up going inside after a brief wander. The hotel is lovely, offering numerous exciting activities for nature lovers who stay there. Our guide rounded us up after two hours to head back to Puerto Varas.
The days passed quickly, yet each one was special in its own way. Our final day arrived, and we took the bus to Ensenada so my daughter could try horseback riding. It turns out that Ensenada lies just below the two volcanoes in the region, providing a scenic backdrop for riding and a fitting final adventure. We also stopped in Cochamó, a quaint town on the way, where we enjoyed lunch. With a sense of sadness, we made our way to the airport the following day. I could certainly have stayed much longer in Puerto Varas; it was one of our best trips ever.
Frequently Asked Questions about Puerto Varas, Patagonia with Kids
What Are Some Family-Friendly Activities in Puerto Varas?
Looking for things to do with the kids in Puerto Varas? You’re spoiled for choice! Spend a day at Lake Llanquihue enjoying picnics and water activities, or head to Vicente Pérez Rosales National Park for unforgettable nature trails. For boat tours with stunning views of the Osorno Volcano, the family’s going to be in awe. Prefer something hands-on? Local farms, kayaking, or a visit to Museo Pablo Fierro for a cultural fix are all great picks.
Is Puerto Varas Safe for Families Traveling with Young Children?
Absolutely! Puerto Varas is known for its relaxed vibe and welcoming locals. It’s considered a safe spot for families—you’ll feel right at home here. That said, as with anywhere else, it’s best to keep your belongings secure and stick to the usual safety tips.
What’s The Best Time to Visit Puerto Varas With Kids?
Summer (December to February) is a clear winner with its warm weather and an endless list of outdoor activities. Want to avoid crowds? Spring (September to November) and fall (March to May) offer mild weather and a quieter experience—perfect for family adventures.
Are There Kid-Friendly Accommodations in Puerto Varas?
You bet! Puerto Varas has many options like cosy cabins, vacation rentals, and family-friendly hotels. Look for amenities like family suites, pools, or play areas. A couple of local favourites are Hotel Cabaña del Lago and charming German-style lodges.
Where Can Families Go Out to Eat?
Even with picky eaters in tow, Puerto Varas has you covered. Casa Valdés and Café Danés serve a mix of comfort food and local Chilean dishes. And if all else fails, you’ll find plenty of pizzerias and bakeries for quick, kid-approved meals.
How Accessible Are Outdoor Activities for Families?
Super kid-friendly! Lake Llanquihue has safe spots where the little ones can play and enjoy a picnic. Exploring Petrohué Falls is stress-free too, thanks to well-maintained trails that even strollers can tackle. Need more help navigating? Guided family-friendly tours are also an option.
What About Play Areas or Parks?
For running off some kid-energy, Parque Philippi is a favorite—it’s great for family hikes and offers stunning views. You’ll also find open green spaces along the Lake Llanquihue waterfront, perfect for kids to play and explore.
What’s the Best Way to Get Around Puerto Varas With Kids?
If you’re venturing out to spots like Osorno Volcano or Ensenada, renting a car is definitely a good call. Otherwise, walking around the city is easy and enjoyable. For short trips, grab a taxi or hop on a local bus – they are very accessible.
Are There Cultural or Educational Activities for Kids?
Definitely! The interactive Museo Pablo Fierro is a hit with kids for local art and history. Exploring lively local markets together can be a fun way to learn about Chilean culture, or check out German-style homes that showcase Puerto Varas’ unique heritage.
What Should We Pack for a Family Trip to Puerto Varas?
Weather can be unpredictable, so pack plenty of layers, waterproof jackets, and sturdy walking shoes. Don’t forget essentials like swimsuits for lake adventures, sunscreen, hats, and insect repellents for the outdoors. If you’re travelling with young kids, throw in snacks, a stroller, and some activities for downtime too.
Where is Patagonia?
Patagonia is a stunning region in the southern part of South America, shared by both Argentina and Chile. It stretches from the Andes Mountains in the west to the Atlantic Ocean in the east. The region is famous for its rugged landscapes, which include towering mountains, sprawling glaciers, deep fjords, and expansive grasslands known as the Patagonian Steppe.
On the Chilean side, you’ll find breathtaking national parks like Torres del Paine, with jagged peaks and turquoise lakes. Over in Argentina, Patagonia is home to the iconic Perito Moreno Glacier and the windswept plains of Tierra del Fuego, often referred to as the “end of the world.”
Interesting fact? Patagonia is so sparsely populated that sheep likely outnumber people. It’s a paradise for adventurers and nature lovers, full of wildlife like guanacos (relatives of llamas), condors, and even penguins along the coasts!
