For a getaway with a difference, we headed off to Marvão, and it turned out to be a weekend packed with dramatic views, festival vibes, and even a few rain showers (which didn’t dampen our spirits!). My daughter and I stayed at a charming little campsite, which was peaceful, affordable—just €15 a night for both of us and our trusty car—and had sparkling-clean, brand-new facilities. I initially wanted to return to our usual spot, but the new gay-friendly management introduced a no-kids policy (seriously, how is that allowed?). Luckily, the new inclusive campsite welcomed us with open arms, making it feel like a great find.
Table of Contents: Marvão with Kids
Getting There: The Scenic Route
We opted to drive because, let’s be real, having a car means you get flexibility, and can leave when you want—and I use my car as a big handbag for stashing all the kids’ paraphernalia. The journey from Coimbra took about two hours, with scenery that changed dramatically along the way: rolling hills and quiet roads, perfect for a stress-free drive. If you’re coming from Lisbon, it’s about 2 hours 40 minutes, and a little longer from Porto. For non-drivers, buses run from Lisbon but not from Porto—something to be aware of.
Why Marvão?
We’d briefly stopped by Marvão a while back in the pouring rain and, even then, I could tell it was one of those places that steals your heart. The village perches on a dramatic cliff-top, straddling the border between Portugal and Spain, and the views are simply breathtaking.
On one side, you’ve got the golden plains of Spain for a hundred miles, and on the other, Portugal’s lush, green hillsides—it’s like standing on top of the world.
This time, the medieval/Moorish festival gave us the perfect excuse to revisit. I’m usually a bit over Portugal’s medieval festivals, but this one had a unique twist, celebrating the country’s rich Arabic heritage, and I was intrigued.
A Weekend Well Spent
We stayed two nights, just enough to soak in Marvão’s charm and enjoy the festival. While the village itself is quiet, the festival brought a lively energy. The performances, costumes, and food gave the whole experience an immersive medieval feel, but with a distinctive Arabic influence that set it apart from other festivals we’ve attended.
The Good, the Bad, and the Bizarre
Let’s talk about the festival. It had the usual medieval flair, which can sometimes feel a bit commercial, but the Arabic theme added a refreshing layer of uniqueness. What doesn’t sit well with me- and this is the same for all the medieval festivals in Portugal, was the wild animals-for-photo-op commercialisation. Seeing birds of prey being passed around in a crowded marketplace for profit just doesn’t feel right. But overlooking that one aspect, the rest of the festival was really fun.
And then there was the food. The food stalls were set up around long communal tables in front of the stage, which I loved—there’s something festive about sitting down with strangers to eat at a long table.
The space was so busy, I decided to just order food from the nearest stall located next to the stage and we got caught in the slapstick comedy action while trying to order. And when the drunken bartenders finally surfaced, they only had 2 dishes left on the menu (with much debate and vanishing acts in between): we were served a plate of tripe in a spicy coriander sauce (the sauce was actually great) and a bowl of greasy stew that actually tasted strongly of cleaning product. But, hey, it was memorable! As my friend always says, “When in doubt, try the local specialty—even if you hate it, you’ll never forget it.” And she’s right.
The festival did redeem itself, though. Who would’ve thought a band including bagpipes playing Iron Maiden’s Fear of the Dark would get the crowd—yes, including little old ladies—on their feet, dancing and clapping? By the end of the night, I was completely sold on the festival’s quirky charm.
Kid-Friendly Highlights
The festival had a number of activities aimed at kids. My daughter was enchanted by the imaginative costumes, belly dancers, juggling, and acroba showst, but her favorite part was the medieval-themed arena. Here, she got to try on costumes and participate in a sword-fighting activity (with wooden swords and proper supervision, of course). It was a hit!
And then there’s the landscape—essentially a giant playground for adventurous kids. My daughter spent every spare moment climbing the boulders scattered around town. The narrow, twisty alleyways of the medieval village and Marvão castle felt perfectly “kid-sized” and are car-free, meaning children can scamper around safely.
The town’s museum about the area’s history dating back to prehistoric times saved us from one particular rain shower and the colourful exhibits held my daughter’s attention for a surprising length of time.
Another rainy-day option is the municipal swimming pool in the next town to keep little ones entertained. The firework displays on both to close out the night’s entertainment were a huge hit, too—my daughter thought you could only see fireworks on New Year’s Eve! Clearly, I need to introduce her to Guy Fawkes Night in the UK—perhaps that’s our next adventure?
A Place to Stay: Albergaria El Rei Dom Manuel
If you’re looking for something more comfortable than a campsite, I recommend Albergaria El Rei Dom Manuel. This charming hotel, set in a restored medieval building right in the heart of Marvão, offers spacious family rooms with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. The staff are incredibly welcoming and make sure you and your little ones feel right at home.
Next time, though, I’d definitely prefer to stay inside the walled village itself rather than down in the valley like we did. There’s something magical about wandering the picturesque, historic lanes at dusk or early morning when the streets are quiet, and you feel like you’ve stepped back in time.
FAQs about Marvão, Portugal
Where can I stay in Marvão?
You can stay at the Albergaria El Rei Dom Manuel inside the walled village for a historic charm. Alternatively, budget-conscious travelers can opt for a campsite nearby for only €15 per night.
What makes Marvão special?
Marvão is perched on a dramatic cliff-top, offering breathtaking views of Portugal’s hillsides and Spain’s golden plains. It feels like standing on top of the world.
How do I get to Marvão?
Driving is the best option for flexibility. It’s about 2–2.5 hours from Coimbra or Lisbon. Non-drivers can take a bus from Lisbon, though routes from Porto are limited.
What’s the highlight of visiting Marvão?
The village’s medieval setting and the annual medieval/Moorish festival are highlights. The blend of history, performances, costumes, and unique Arabic influences make it unforgettable.
Are there family-friendly activities in Marvão?
Yes! Kids can enjoy sword-fighting, costume try-ons, medieval-themed activities, exploring Marvão Castle, and climbing the town’s boulders. The nearby museum and municipal pool are also great for rainy days.
Can I explore the surrounding countryside?
Absolutely! The scenic drives around Marvão feature rolling hills and quiet roads. The panoramic views from the cliff-top are also a gateway to Portugal’s lush greenery and Spain’s plains.
What’s unique about Marvão’s festival?
Marvão’s medieval festival stands out with its Arabic influences. From belly dancers to musicians playing unconventional setlists (like bagpipes covering Iron Maiden), it’s a quirky delight.
How old is Marvão?
Marvão, a beautifully preserved medieval village in Portugal, dates back to at least the 9th century. Its origins tie closely to the Moorish period, when it served as a vital fortress under Moorish control. The village is named after Ibn Marwan, the Muslim leader who established the settlement and fortified it as a strategic stronghold.
Over time, Marvão became a key player in Portugal’s defense system, especially during the Reconquista in the 12th century, when Christian forces reclaimed the Iberian Peninsula. Its hilltop location, perched nearly 3,500 feet above sea level, made it an ideal defensive outpost. The stone walls and castle that stand today were further strengthened during the reign of Dom Dinis in the 13th and 14th centuries.
With a history spanning over 1,000 years, Marvão offers a fascinating glimpse into Portugal’s rich past, blending Moorish roots with medieval Christian influences. Its age and historical significance make it a must-visit for those exploring the country’s heritage.
Other blogs to check out:
17 World Heritage Sites in Portugal
4 responses
Thanks for the advice on where to stay. I often do what you did, stay outside the city, and regret it. Staying inside the city walls sounds like where I need to be!
What a gorgeous part of Portugal. I love staying in ‘different’ places like in a walled village.
Hello! I’ve never heard of this place before but it looks marvellous & kids-friendly. You say the historical part is definitely worth visiting, but what about the countryside? The views are stunning, in my opinion.
Oooh I can see why you loved Marvaos, even in the rain – that scenery is incredible and the festival sounds like so much fun! I would feel the same about the animals – I wonder how long it will be before that kind of cruelty is banned all over Europe!? At least bagpipes playing Iron Maiden’s Fear of the Dark get you all dancing!
p.s. I love your friends way of trying things with “When in doubt, try the local specialty—even if you hate it, you’ll never forget it.” That is such a good way to collect fun stories and maybe taste amazing new dishes!
p.p.s So strange that the campsite can ban kids! I have never heard of that!